We drove through bustling Nakuru town to get to the main gate of Lake Nakuru National Park, "The Bird Lovers' Paradise", and site of an event called something like "Cycle with the Rhinos" the day we were there. There were hundreds of people, almost all African, milling around the gate area when we arrived, but once we paid our entry and drove the round-about route into the park (Lake Nakuru is currently flooded way past its usual boundaries), all was quiet wilderness.
Astounding beauty. Acacia forests up to, and past, the water's edge. Rolling hills, sharp cliffs, expanses of grass. Countless exotic birds. And immediately we saw herds of impala and several zebras. Muddy, partially flooded roads, with large stones thrown in for traction, which John navigated expertly. We drove about halfway around the lake and then turned uphill to our lodge - Sarova Lion Hill. We got a missionary discount, which made the expense reasonable on our budget (thanks again to Ann and Mardi for some excellent safari advice), and though it still wasn't cheap it was more than worth every penny. We checked in (cool washcloth and a glass of passionfruit juice, yes, thank you!) and then enjoyed a beautiful buffet lunch with a view. Annie was eager to explore the new digs, especially after a few hours in the car, and quickly discovered the chilly swimming pool, tucked away just downhill from the restaurant. Austin was lucky enough to get to take a quick dip with her, as the cool rain started to fall. By mid-afternoon, we were dressed and ready for our first real game drive.
The rain seemed to work to our advantage. We quickly spotted cape buffalo grazing near the water's edge, then drove right into a troop of baboons. There were probably 15-20 of them, including several babies. Annie was eating a peanut butter cookie, and one large male baboon started to approach the van. John quickly warned us to close the window - it hadn't even occurred to me that he might try to grab the cookie, but we would later discover just how bold they can be. We continued our drive, spotting waterbucks, flamingos, and soon a small group of black rhinos. Probably best to let the pictures speak for themselves. It was incredible to see these animals in their own habitats. So majestic. And their behavior was far more interesting than the usual zoo milling around. At this point we tracked past the far edge of the lake into rolling hills, rimmed with cliffs. Weather was still cool and cloudy. Riding in the pop-top van was somewhat like being in a boat. Drove through some more acacia woods, spotting several (Rothschild) giraffes. Then we came upon a cluster of safari vehicles, for the highlight of our trip!
Lions! First we saw the male, and then his harem sauntered up, at least 10 females. Pictures worth a thousand words. Such an amazing thing to watch. We drove within 5-10 feet of them as we moved on to make room for newcomers. Then we came upon another female, and stopped in the road just in front of two safari jeeps, a male and female. We stood and watch as they all strolled within two feet of our van, crossed the road right behind us, and moved off a respectful distance before engaging in some fascinating behavior. Pictures to come! I've been to the Memphis Zoo a lot in the past two years and have not been that close to a lion. And then you're doing well to see one roll over. What a spectacular scene they were. Wild and majestic and beatiful.
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